Home Gardening Tips

Plants, like humans, require food and water to survive. They may not require the same resources as we do to develop and survive, but the fundamental principles remain the same.

They require liquid fertilizers and compost, among other things. It will act as a channel for nutrients to be delivered to plants through their leaves as a foliar feed or through the soil and root system.

Liquid Fertilizer

Liquid fertilizer is any liquid solution fed to plants as a source of nutrition. These fertilizers can provide plants with the food they require to survive through various delivery techniques. You can either spray the fertilizer over the plant’s leaves or place it in the soil, where its roots will absorb it.

While liquid fertilizers are typically used to feed individual plants, you can also use them to increase the growth area in which several plants are located. In addition, you can add liquid fertilizer to the region if you want to boost the amount of nutrient content in the soil or another sort of growing medium. This article explains the best liquid fertilizer for your agricultural needs in-depth.

Choosing the right liquid fertilizer

It’s crucial to know that different liquid fertilizers should be used for other growth places and plants before choosing the one you think is best for your plants. The plants will likely be injured or destroyed if you use the wrong fertilizer. Additionally, keep clear from overly concentrated solutions.

The NPK balance of the solution is the most crucial factor to consider. The nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK) balance relates to the nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. All three nutrients are required for the production of liquid fertilizer. However, each plant requires a specific NPK nutrient content, which you should consider before using liquid fertilizer.

Nitrogen

Nitrogen is an element that is extremely useful to plant growth. When supplied to plants, this material mainly encourages leaf growth, so leafy crops require a lot of nitrogen to live. A plant’s green leaves that aren’t getting enough nitrogen will begin to yellow and discolor. It’s also conceivable for plants with insufficient nitrogen to develop a reddish hue on their leaves.

If the leaves of your plants turn yellow after being heavily watered, you know they aren’t getting enough nitrogen. Because nitrogen is a remarkably soluble element, it can be washed out of the soil if you over-water your plants. Instead, consider feeding your plants nitrogen-rich feeds, such as nettle-based and grass clippings.

Phosphorus

Another key element that most plants require to survive is phosphorus. This element can aid in the formation of roots and shoots. While phosphorus deficiency in plants is uncommon, it can happen after heavy rains or if the plants are growing in clay soil. Slowing growth, dulling foliage, and yellowing leaves are the most common symptoms of phosphorus shortage. Consider adding blood and bone meal or fish to your meals to solve this problem and offer your plants the nutrients they require.

Potassium

Potassium is needed for the management of water intake as well as the photosynthetic process. Because plants rely on photosynthesis to transform sunlight into food and fuel, each plant must obtain the proper quantity of potassium. In addition, potassium aids in the healthy fruiting and flowering of various plants. The leaves of plants that aren’t getting enough potassium to survive will become purple or yellow. It’s also possible that the plants won’t flower correctly or the leaves’ edges will turn brown.

When using sandy or chalky soils, potassium shortage is more likely. This problem might also arise as a result of excessive rains. Consider utilizing organic tomato feeds or feeds based on alternative potassium sources to solve this issue adequately. Banana skins, for example, might be used as the basis for your diet. Once the plants have been introduced to them, any indicators of deficiency should go quickly, resulting in healthy plants.

pH levels

When looking for the best liquid fertilizer for your plants, it’s critical to pay attention to the pH levels of the fertilizer. Because the soil already has its pH, the fertilizer must have a specified pH level. Suppose the fertilizer’s pH levels are drastically different from the soil levels. In that case, the fertilizer may cause the pH levels to alter once applied, thus compromising the health of your plants. The plants may be unable to grow adequately if the nutrients are too acidic or alkaline.

A potash liquid fertilizer is an example of a fertilizer that can alter the pH of your soil. This fertilizer is widely used to bring very acidic soils back into equilibrium. While different plants require varying pH levels in the ground, most plants prefer a pH range of 5.5-7.5. If the pH of the fertilizer is less than 5.5, it is termed acidic; anything higher than 7.5 is considered alkaline. Before you choose a liquid fertilizer, check the pH of your soil. You probably won’t need to apply a potash liquid fertilizer if the pH is already at an ideal level.

Liquid fertilizer for plants

Here are some examples of organic liquid fertilizers you can manufacture at home for your plants:

Banana peels

Potassium is abundant in banana peels. Therefore, potassium-rich fertilizers are beneficial to flowering and fruiting plants. However, this may not be the best option for foliage plants like spinach and lettuce.

Organic liquid fertilizer created from banana peels is beneficial to squash and tomato plants. Fill a mason jar halfway with water and cork it with banana peels. Allow it to rest for three days before using it in your garden.

Eggshells

The calcium content of eggshells is high, while the potassium concentration is low. Crush them and combine them with water in a mason jar. Allow a week for the water to settle before using it to water your plants. It’s ideal for tomatoes as well as indoor plants. Calcium helps to keep blossom-end rot at bay.

Vegetable cooking water

Cooking? Don’t throw away the water used to boil the vegetables. Instead, allow it to cool entirely before diluting with water. It can be used on both houseplants and in the organic garden. To avoid an unpleasant odor, use it all at once. This water also contains many vitamins lost when the vegetables are cooked.

Droppings

Collect chicken, rabbit, or goat droppings and place them in a bucket with just enough water to cover the droppings. Drain the water after two to three days of sitting. Use a one-to-twenty water ratio to dilute it and use it to water plants in your organic garden. Droppings tea contains a lot of nitrogen.

Epsom salts

Sulfur and magnesium are found in Epsom salts. Add a tablespoon of Epsom salts to a gallon of water. Use a sprayer to apply the mixture to peppers, tomatoes, roses, and onions. Twice a month, spray them.

Before applying an organic liquid fertilizer to your plants, make sure they’re well-watered. This stops them from absorbing too much salt. If the plants appear to be withered due to a lack of water, it is best to water them well first and then wait twenty-four hours before fertilizing.

Composting

Composting is the natural process of converting organic matter such as leaves and food scraps into valuable fertilizer for both soil and plants. In addition, it hastens decomposition by creating an ideal environment for bacteria, fungi, and other decomposing organisms (such as worms, sowbugs, and nematodes) to work in.

Compost is the decomposed stuff that looks like fertile garden soil after decomposing. Compost, often known as “black gold” by farmers, is nutrient-rich and can be utilized in gardening, horticulture, and agriculture.

Composting requires three essential components:

• Browns: Materials such as dead leaves, branches, and twigs fall within this category.
• Green: Grass clippings, vegetable trash, fruit leftovers, and coffee grounds are all examples of greens.
• Water: Having the appropriate amount of water, greens, and browns is crucial for composting.

You should evenly distribute browns and greens in your compost pile. Layers of organic materials of various sizes should also be alternated. The brown materials offer carbon, the green materials provide nitrogen, and the water helps break down the organic matter by providing moisture.

Compost benefits

Some of the benefits of composting include:

• It enriches the soil and aids in retaining moisture and suppresses plant diseases and pests.
• Chemical fertilizers aren’t needed as much.
• Encourages the growth of beneficial bacteria and fungus that decompose organic materials into humus, a nutrient-rich substance.
• Reduces landfill methane emissions and minimizes your carbon footprint.

Compost bin

A compost bin is a container storing dry or moist (organic) waste that eventually decomposes into compost. Compost bins aim to speed up the decomposition process by providing appropriate aeration and moisture retention. The aerobic bacteria can turn organic waste into compost under ideal conditions, such as the right balance of air and moisture.

The composting process will differ depending on the type of bin you use. Compost bins can be purchased or made at home.

Compost bins can be made at home using the following materials:

• Plastic
• Ceramic
• Stone
• Wood

Well-designed aerobic compost bins encourage aerobic bacteria to thrive, which you want. In addition, compost bins that are well-maintained do not emit a foul odor. On the other hand, anaerobic bins emit a foul odor for days.

Compost machine

A composting machine addresses the drawbacks of old composting methods, which were time-consuming, smelly, and took up a lot of room. In addition, there was a slew of other difficulties with the traditional approach that also needed to be addressed. Composting machines are used to treat and recycle both solid and liquid waste.

The discovery of the organic waste composting machine was a watershed moment in the search for waste treatment technologies that were both safe and environmentally benign. As more public and private businesses and people become aware of the machines’ benefits, they turn to them to recycle and convert their garbage to ease landfill congestion.

Composting machine technology provides several advantages that have attracted the attention of many people. For example, the devices are quiet, have no unpleasant odor, don’t attract rats, insects, or flies, and can compost garbage indefinitely. In addition, the efficiency of their volume reduction is in the region of 80 to 90%.

Compost with coffee grounds

Coffee grounds are an excellent addition to the compost pile and garden. You can recycle this valuable organic resource and reduce organic waste in landfills.

Layer the components in the compost pile using 1/3 leaves, 1/3 fresh grass clippings, and 1/3 coffee grounds. If you use it as part of a static compost pile, add coffee grounds, including an equal amount of a carbon source, such as shredded paper or dried leaves. Mix everything up thoroughly.

Compost tea recipe

The term “compost tea” is a misnomer. Tea is technically an infusion, which involves boiling water and pouring it over herbs to make a healthy beverage. While compost tea is similar to a healthy drink for plants, the process is closer to fermentation. Therefore it should almost be named compost beer. It’s a brewed liquid that concentrates bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and, hopefully, nematodes into a liquid form that can be easily used.

You can make compost tea in a variety of ways. The use of vermiculture casting is a popular method. This is another reason to build a worm bin if you don’t already have one. You can create a nutritious tea even if you haven’t begun your worm compost yet.

Ingredients:

• Compost
• Pillowcase or empty bag from rice or wheat
• String or baling twine
• Five-gallon bucket
• Water

Steps:

1. Rinse the bucket well with plain water to remove any remaining bleach or soap.
2. Fill the pillowcase with one shovel of compost.
3. Using the string, firmly close it.
4. Place the bucket in a bright area.
5. Fill the bucket with water until it is two-thirds full.
6. Allow three days for it to “brew.”

Your compost tea recipe is complete once it has been brewed. Remove the bag and re-insert it into your compost. You can now water your plants with the tea.

Is compost a fertilizer?

Compost and fertilizer are not interchangeable terms. However, compost can be used as a fertilizer.

Fertilizer is a natural or synthetic origin item applied to soil or plant tissues to deliver one or more plant nutrients required for plant growth.

Compared to a fertilizer, compost has lower nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (a.k.a. NPK) values. To boost these macronutrient ratios, some people add substances like urea.

However, the NPK value of compost has a monetary worth. Therefore, any input decisions regarding synthetic fertilizer purchases should consider the nutrients given by a compost product. Compost also contributes a variety of micronutrients that aren’t typically found in commercial fertilizers and improves nutrient uptake.

The soil is nourished with compost. The earth looks after the plants by providing many nutrients, pest and disease resistance, and other benefits. However, those nutrients are slow-release, allowing plants to sustain themselves over time. The advantage of a single compost treatment is that it can last for several seasons.

The main objective of fertilizer is to feed plants. The primary purpose of most synthetic fertilizers is to provide N, P, and K to the soil. The application offers a rush of nourishment right away.

Have you tried using liquid fertilizer or compost tea? How did it help your plants?

Source:

• https://sensorex.com/2021/01/11/liquid-fertilizer-for-agriculture/
• https://happydiyhome.com/liquid-fertilizer/
• https://www.ecomena.org/liquid-organic-fertilizer/
• https://www.nrdc.org/stories/composting-101
• https://www.epa.gov/recycle/composting-home
• https://www.conserve-energy-future.com/compost-pile-vs-bin.php
• https://ecepl.com/all/organic-waste-composting-machine/
• https://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/soil-compost/coffee-grounds-composting
• https://morningchores.com/compost-tea-recipe/
• https://mcgillcompost.com/resources/are-compost-and-fertilizer-the-same/

Introduction

A weed may be described as any plant or vegetation that interrupts farming or forestry objectives, such as growing crops, grazing animals, or cultivating forest plantations.
A weed may even be defined as any plant growing where it is not wanted. For instance, a plant may be valuable or useful in a garden, farm, or plantation. But if the same plant increases where it lowers the value of agricultural produce or spoils aesthetic or environmental importance, it is considered a weed. Yet, some plants are still weeds regardless of where they grow.

Weeding is probably one of the most despised gardening tasks, usually because it’s hard work and the job never appears to be finished. If you remove one weed, two more will spring up in its place.

So what is the best way to remove weeds from your garden and lawn?

There’s no easy answer; the best method and/or tool depends on several factors –

• you (for example, your hand strength and skillfulness, ability to kneel and reach, how much time and patience you have)
• type of weeds and its number (there are many types of weeds, so knowing the types of weeds makes it easier for you to remove them.)
• conditions (soil type and moistness level, where the weeds are located, garden bed, between patio pavers, climbing up a tree), and
• Preferences in removing the weeds (organic vs. mechanical vs. chemical).

Why is weeding necessary 

Weeding is one of the most essential practices for many crops. Weeding can be defined as removing weeds (unwanted plants) from the field.

Weeding is necessary because weeds compete with primary crop plants for the different factors such as water, sunlight, nutrients, and space, affecting plant growth.

Due to unwanted plants, there is a reduction in yield also.

It is best to weeding 2-3 times whenever weeds grow again. Therefore, weed should be controlled in the initial stage.

There are different benefits of the weeding process by which we can get a healthier crop.

By mulching, we can prevent the growth of weeds. However, you can remove weeds with your bare hands. Still, you can also use some poisonous chemicals to kill weeds in the fields, although this is not recommended because this can harm both you and the plants nearby.

These poisonous chemicals are also known as weedicides.

Weeds can also be removed by using a trowel (khurpa). 

However, weeds transfer diseases and pests. That’s why it is crucial to control weeds in time.

If you want your garden to look perfect and neat, you might need to weed your lawn/garden from time to time. Here’s why.

• Weeding keeps your garden beds tidy and, most importantly, keeps your plants healthy.
• Weeds hinder plant growth by competing for moisture and nutrients in the soil. Your “real” plants may decline or overrun if you don’t weed.
• Weeds can shatter the look of your carefully-planned garden. Imagine the yellow dandelions instead of the blue salvia you expected to see…
• Some weeds are toxic and poisonous or cause skin irritation (e.g., poison ivy, giant hogweed).
• Invasive plants can get out of control.
• Once weeds have grown, they are hard to remove, so there might be a possibility you might damage your plants when removing them.

How to prevent weeds

The most reasonable way to prevent weeds from spreading throughout your garden is to stop them before they take root. Knowing how to control weeds means understanding the task is not a one-time job but rather a continual garden chore.

Although there’s no method to “weed proof” your garden, there are several ways to reduce the number and vigor of weeds. Some of the most typical scenarios include:

• Intensive cropping or planting densely (is a farming method that uses higher inputs and advanced agricultural techniques to increase the overall yield.)
• Surrounding the soil with mulch (these includes organic mulches, such as shredded bark, compost, or pine straw, and inorganic materials, such as gravel, rubber mulch) or a weed-suppressing coating (fabric, plastic)
• Applying a chemical weed suppressant on the soil surface (We don’t recommend this as we prefer not to use chemicals in the garden as much as possible. Mulching is preferred.)
• Deadheading or pulling all weeds before they start to seed. (The best way to eliminate most undesirable plants is to pull them out manually, eradicating as much of the roots as possible.)

Nevertheless, no matter how diligent you are in attempting to prevent weeds. There’s always one that goes away, so you need to find another way to remove or prevent them.

Try making your own weed killer using vinegar and soap

I hate weeds. Don’t you? If you wander around the gardening aisle at your local or big box store, you will see all sorts of weed killers. But what if you could exterminate weeds using natural ingredients without running to buy one of those expensive weed killers. Did you know you probably have a perfect weed killer in your cupboard? It’s vinegar! Yes, it’s true…vinegar does kill weeds, particularly when used along with dish soap. Vinegar, Dish Soap, and a plastic spray bottle are all you need to be able to make your own organic weed killer. The acetic acid in the vinegar that you sprayed “sucks out the water” from the weed, which parches it up. It usually takes 24 hours to remove the weeds by using vinegar. In addition, the dish soap helps to break down the outer coat of the plant (cuticle), which allows that vinegar to work best. Here’s how to identify weeds in your yard.

Weed killer recipe

• 1-gallon of vinegar (with 5% acetic acid)
• 1 ounce of dish soap
•  1 spray bottle.

Directions: Mix the vinegar and soap together in a container. After pouring into a spray bottle, spray onto weeds.

Application tips

Before you apply the weed killer you just made for your garden, here are some guidelines:

• Vinegar/soap weed killer is non-selective, which indicates that it will also damage/kill your desirable plants. So be cautious when applying to weeds.
• It’s best to Apply on a sunny day with no wind because the sun helps the vinegar to dry out the weed. For the best result, you also want to wait for a windless day so that it won’t inadvertently spray onto other plants when you spray.
• Your vinegar mixture may or may not eradicate the weed’s root. You may need to reapply if green growth shows up after that, or you can also try to spray a little of the mixture over the root zone to thoroughly kill large weeds.
• Vinegar/soap weed killer may not kill all types of weeds; it depends on what you are dealing with. An experiment in your own garden to see which types of weeds it works on.

So, next time you need to kill weeds, simply open your cupboard and make your own weed killer with vinegar and soap. It’s natural, effective, and cheap! Then, check out more ways to win the war on weeds.

Two types of weeding tools

While hand pulling is the easiest method, it’s only effective against smaller weeds with shorter roots. It also assumes that you can spend extended periods on your knees, reaching for and removing weeds. For anything else, you’ll require a weeding tool of some kind.

There are two primary styles of weeding tools – short-handled and long-handled. Short-handled tools are most suitable for working on your knees in tight or closely planted areas. Long-handled tools let you stand while weeding and cover a larger size.

Within these two primary styles, you’ll find various designs. Manufacturers have come up with all types of tools to remove weeds. Some work very well; others are mainly gimmicks.

No tool is excellent for all weeding tasks, so you’ll likely end up with several different types of devices. The key is to find the tools that best allow you to do the kind of weeding necessary for your garden or lawn.

Here’s what you need to understand to choose the best weeding tool for your needs.

What to consider when buying weeding tools

When considering buying a new weeding tool, First, you should ask yourself the following questions:

• Does this tool help me to work in a relaxed position? Can I hold it smoothly? Do I have the strength and/or skill to use it correctly?
• Does it help pull out the entire root? What about weeds with more extended or deeper roots (as deep as 6 to 12 inches or greater)? This is especially important for tap-rooted weeds – if you miss even a little piece of root, the weed will grow back quickly.
• Does this tool work for the most common and/or disturbing weeds in my garden? For instance, if you have a lot of running grasses, can it pull out the roots without breaking them into tiny pieces? If dandelions are your problem, can they pull taproots?
• Is this weeding tool made of high-quality materials, such as a hickory grip or stainless steel blade? Are the parts held together securely? And most importantly, does it have a warranty?
• Are the cutting or digging edges sharp? Can it be resharpened if required?
• What sort of maintenance does this tool need? Does it require frequent cleaning, lubricating, or sharpening? Am I ready to do that?
• What else can this weeding tool help me with? And if I obtain this weeding tool, what different tools will I also need to be capable of doing all the necessary weeding tasks in my garden?
• Given all of the above, is this actually a tool that I’ll use? Will it make weeding more manageable, or will it just complicate things?

Short-handled weeding tools

Short-handle weeders are more than just a shorter version of long-handled weeding tools. Although some look like miniature hoes, there is also a wide range of unique styles only found with short handles. The goal is to give you reasonable control of where you make your weeding strikes. So that you don’t accidentally uproot your prized perennials with enough power to complete the job as efficiently as possible.

Depending on your conditions, one or more of these short-handled tools may be what you need.

Hori hori, or japanese farmer’s knife

This versatile weed tool looks like a knife on steroids. This 7-inch blade has one smooth edge for slicing (like when opening a bag of mulch) and one serrated edge for stabbing and sawing through roots, sod, and other rigid material. It can be used for cultivating, cutting, digging, and prying weeds out of the ground. It’s usually obtainable with either a stainless steel or carbon steel blade. While the carbon steel has a sharper edge, it also needs more frequent sharpening and rusts quickly.

Lesche digging knife

There are a few gardening tools I simply cannot be without – this is one of them. The Lesche digging knife is an intensified version of the traditional Hori Hori. It has a comfortable and sturdy handle and a serrated and straight edge on the digging blade. In addition, there’s a blade shield to protect your hand as you plunge the weeding tool into the soil, and it’s a heat-treated blade that’s powerful enough to allow you to do far more than just weed.

Asparagus knife / fishtail or the dandelion weeder

You’ve probably seen this kind of tool many times– it’s the tool commonly used to pry up dandelions. There’s nothing like a fishtail weeder for removing dandelions out of lawn or groundcover. It has an extended, narrow shaft with a V-shaped end. Just plunge it into the soil beside the dandelion with the V facing the plant. Pull it back slightly on the handle. There you go; the dandelion will pop out easily.

Cape cod weeder

This is a strange-looking weed tool, but it is convenient when working in tight spaces. The L-shaped blade is pulled toward you right under the soil surface, cutting off weeds at the root. It’s short enough to let you effortlessly reach between plants and is comfortable to hold. Make sure you get the correct one because it comes in both a right- and a left-handed version.

Long-handled weeding tools

This is a category of tools where you’ll find multiple gimmicky items that don’t work. However, here are the long-handled weeding tools that are highly recommended.

Oscillating hoe or stirrup hoe

This is another hoe that’s somewhat different from a traditional American hoe. It’s stirrup-shaped instead of a solid blade (hence the name stirrup hoe). The base of the stirrup is flat and sharpened on both sides; it’s the part of the hoe that does all the job. Just place the blade on the soil surface and move it back and forth (push and pull it like how you would do it on a vacuum cleaner). The edge will dig in just below the surface and cut off weeds at the root. It also nurtures the soil as you move it as an added bonus. This tool is generally lightweight, easy to use, and maneuverable (so you can also use it in tightly planted garden beds).

Dutch hoe

A Dutch hoe differs from the traditional American hoe you’re probably familiar with. It’s used by resting the lower end of the blade flat on the ground and gently sliding the hoe back and forth. The blade will slip under the soil’s surface to break it up and cut the weeds from their roots. Hoeing becomes an easy task by working backward from one end of a bed to the other with push-pull action. This hoe’s long handle and easy motion allow you to stand upright without bending over, saving your back and time.

Radius pro weeder

This ergonomic weeder has a circular, resin-coated handle that’s perfect for those of us with arthritic fingers, like those who grip strength issues, carpal tunnel, or other hand/wrist problems. The long, stainless steel blade easily slides into the ground when you step on the footrest. It’s particularly good at uprooting taproot weeds – say goodbye to dandelions and dock! It’s made of resin-encased steel and has a lifetime guarantee.

Scotts weed-out pro

I’ve always been skeptical of stand-up weeders – they make many promises, but many are flimsy tools that don’t get the job done. But the WeedOut Pro from Scotts puts that stereotype to rest. It does an excellent job of pulling weeds in garden beds and lawns. The only time you’ll have to bend over or kneel down is to pick up the weeds after they’ve been ejected from the tool. Assuming you don’t remove them directly into a bucket or tub trug. It’s sturdy, lightweight, and easy to use. This will save a lot of pain to the back, knees, and hands and have the bonus of aerating the soil simultaneously.

Sources:

• https://teara.govt.nz/en/weeds-of-agriculture/page-1#:~:text=A%20weed%20may%20be%20defined,where%20it%20is%20not%20wanted.
• https://gardeningproductsreview.com/best-weeding-tools/
• https://www.digitrac.in/agricare-blog/why-weeding-is-necessary-in-agricultural-field#:~:text=Weeding%20is%20necessary%20because%20weeds,weeds%20start%20to%20grow%20again.
• https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/gardening-basics/make-your-own-weed-killer-with-vinegar/
• https://www.hgtv.com/outdoors/gardens/planting-and-maintenance/make-your-own-natural-weed-killer
• https://gilmour.com/how-to-prevent-weeds-garden

Horsetail (Equisetum hyemale), often known as rough horsetail or scouring rush, is an evergreen plant with no flowers. Instead, it has vertical green stems with horizontal bands, like bamboo, but they’re thinner and higher, like ornamental grass. Horsetail reproduces through spores rather than seeds and underground rhizomes, similar to ferns.

Equisetum hyemale

Equisetum is derived from the Latin words equus, which means “horse,” and seta, which means “bristle.” It alludes to the general look of plants of this genus and their rough, bristly texture. At the same time, hyemale refers to winter, which implies its tendency to remain evergreen in warmer environments.

Horsetail Plant Care

Horsetail is far from a delicate plant. It is sometimes more difficult to confine than to grow; it has a strong tendency to spread and produce a monoculture. The spreading potential of horsetail, on the other hand, is helpful if you want the plants to fill an area that is unfriendly to most other species.

Install plastic barriers in the soil to keep horsetail planted in the ground under control, just like you would for invasive bamboo. Growing the horsetail in a deep pot buried in the earth is another option. Containment will be difficult, though, because horsetail spreads through spores as well.

Light

Horsetail is a light-loving plant that thrives in a wide range of light conditions, from full sun to moderate shade. It does, however, enjoy the filtered shade, such as that found beneath large trees on the forest floor.

Soil

Horsetail grows best on poor, sandy, gravely soil that gets a lot of rain. When growing horsetail in a container, you can add gravel or sand to the potting mix to give it the texture it prefers.

Water

Horsetail prefers soil that is at least fairly damp when it comes to moisture. It can even grow up to a depth of four inches in standing water. As a result, it’s ideal for rain gardens and other regions that may flood on occasion. Horsetail should be irrigated constantly and never allowed to dry up due to its love of water and damp soil. In hotter climates, this may even necessitate daily watering.

Temperature and Humidity

Horsetail plants grow in a wide range of temperatures and prefer high humidity for several hours each day. The plant is hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9, so winter care isn’t necessary; however, the vivid green of the stems may fade in particularly harsh winters.

Fertilizer

Horsetail plants do not require fertilization because they do not prefer extremely rich or fertile soil.

Keeping Horsetails in Under Control

Horsetail is simple to grow, but its underground rhizomes make it difficult to restrict it from spreading into undesirable locations. In addition, it’s very tough to eradicate once it’s formed, so it’s better to keep it contained with some barrier.

Growing it in a pot or planter is the simplest approach, we might add that they’re quite a popular plant for container gardening. You can also erect an underground barrier around it, similar to those used to keep bamboo under control.

Planting horsetail on an island within a concrete patio is another popular approach; it has a very modernist aspect in this setting and cannot escape into the rest of the landscape.

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Horsetail Oil

Horsetail oil is an extracted oil, not an essential oil. It is extracted straight from the horsetail plant using a cold-pressing method or soaking the plant in water or oil to make a tincture. It is usually taken as a supplement to improve hair conditions and promote growth.

It strengthens and enhances the suppleness of hair fibers, aids in regulating the hair growth cycle, and lowers inflammation. Taking horsetail oil also improves cell turnover on the scalp to promote healthy hair growth.

Horsetail Tea

Horsetail tea is a great way to detox your body and strengthen your bones, but it does have some potential adverse effects that you should be aware of. 

The tea is made from the dried leaves of Equisetum, the last genus of an ancient vascular plant family. Horsetail tea is high in silica, calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, selenium, zinc, manganese, and iron. It also contains various vitamins, antioxidants, fatty acids, saponins, and sterols, all of which have different effects on health.

Here’s a simple recipe for horsetail tea you can try at home.

Ingredients:

• 2-3 tsp dried horsetail
• 2 cups hot water
• Honey or sweetener of your choice

Instructions:

1. Bring a kettle of water to a boil to create horsetail tea.
2. In a teapot, add 2-3 tablespoons of dried horsetail.
3. Over the dried leaves, pour the hot water.
4. Allow 8-10 minutes for the tea to steep
5. Strain the tea, flavor it with honey or any other sweetener of your choice, and enjoy your cup of tea.

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Horsetail Benefits

The horsetail plant has a variety of valuable compounds that have a range of health benefits. Antioxidants and silica stand out among these.

Antioxidants are chemicals that help your body combat free radicals and prevent cell damage. Silica, on the other hand, is a silicon-oxygen combination. Horsetail’s potential advantages for skin, nails, hair, and bones are thought to be due to this compound.

Horsetail is most commonly ingested as a tea created by steeping the dry herb in hot water. However, it is also available as a pill or a tincture.

Horsetail has been used as a herbal treatment for thousands of years, and current scientific data supports the majority of its potential advantages.

Bone Healing

Horsetail has been shown in studies to help in bone healing.

Bone cells called osteoclasts and osteoblasts constantly remodel your bones through bone metabolism to avoid imbalances that can lead to brittle bones. Osteoblasts are responsible for bone formation, while osteoclasts are responsible for bone resorption.

Horsetail appears to inhibit osteoclasts and activate osteoblasts in test tubes. This shows that it could benefit bone illnesses such as osteoporosis, caused by overactive osteoclasts, resulting in brittle bones.

Horsetail’s bone-remodeling action, according to researchers, is primarily attributable to its high silica content. Silica accounts for up to 25% of its dry weight. No other plant has a higher concentration of this mineral than this one.

By promoting collagen synthesis and improving calcium absorption and usage, silica, also found in bones, promotes bone and cartilage tissue development, density, and consistency.

Natural Diuretic

Diuretics are substances that cause your body to excrete more urine. Horsetail’s diuretic action is one of the fern’s most sought-after folk medicine characteristics.

A study of 36 healthy males found that daily ingesting 900 mg of dried horsetail extract in capsule form had a more effective diuretic effect than traditional diuretic medicine. The plant’s high antioxidant and mineral salt concentrations were credited with this.

While these findings are encouraging, existing research is limited.

Promotes the Healing of Wounds

Horsetail ointment appears to enhance wound healing when applied topically.

Researchers also conducted a 10-day trial in 108 postpartum women who had an episiotomy during delivery — a surgical cut to facilitate childbirth. They found that using an ointment containing 3% horsetail extract aided wound healing and pain relief.

In addition, when compared to a control group, wound redness, edema, and discharge improved dramatically. Scientists credited the silica concentration of the plant for these beneficial effects.

Nail Health

Horsetail extract can also be used in nail polish to treat nail psoriasis. Psoriasis is a skin ailment that produces abnormalities in the nails.

According to one study, applying a nail lacquer containing a blend of horsetail extract and other nail-hardening chemicals reduced the appearance of nail psoriasis.

Hair Growth

According to research, horsetail may also improve your hair, thanks to its silicon and antioxidant content.

To begin with, antioxidants aid in the reduction of micro-inflammation and free radical-induced aging of hair fibers. Second, hair fibers with a higher silicon concentration have a reduced rate of hair loss and have a brighter appearance.

A three-month study found that taking two daily capsules containing dried horsetail and other components enhanced hair growth and strength. This is compared to a control group in women with self-perceived hair loss. Other studies that looked at the effect of different mixes comprising horsetail-derived silica came with similar conclusions.

However, research on horsetail’s effects alone is currently restricted because most studies focus on various hair growth components.

Relief from Inflammation

If you routinely experience uncomfortable swelling and inflammation in various parts of your body. Whether due to an injury, arthritis, gout, or any other ailment, including horsetail tea or supplements in your health regimen can be highly beneficial. This herb’s analgesic and anti-inflammatory components can help you fast recover from your symptoms and get back on your feet.

Ease Respiratory Problems

If you have respiratory problems, such as congestion or repeated colds, horsetail tea can help. It works as an expectorant, removing mucus and phlegm from the respiratory tract, where germs can lodge and increase, strengthening the immune system and reducing inflammation, resulting in respiratory comfort.

Precautions

Horsetail does have some side effects, but they usually appear after you’ve been taking it for more than two months. Preparation is the primary source of safety problems with this plant. Because of its high silica concentration, chewing the raw plant can wear down the teeth.

A chemical called thiaminase is also present in the fresh plant. This chemical can deplete the body’s supply of thiamine, a B vitamin. However, this is usually only an issue with long-term excessive intake and can generally be counteracted by a balanced diet rich in B vitamins. Heating or drying can also deactivate thiaminase.

Horsetail is not recommended for alcoholics, pregnant, or breastfeeding. Diabetics and those using prescription drugs are also advised to check their healthcare practitioner before using this herb.

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Conclusion

Horsetail is a very low-maintenance plant. However, because it’s so widespread, you can end yourself with the opposite problem: difficulty controlling the plant. You can easily solve this by placing it in a container.

While it is not recommended to grow horsetail indoors, this is due to the plant’s quick-spreading nature and demand for ample and consistent water. It is still possible.

It has been used for thousands of years to treat various ailments and is frequently seen in products that claim to promote hair growth or bone health. However, there is little evidence suggesting that it can treat medical disorders or be safe to use. In addition, the Food and Drug Administration has not approved horsetail to treat any medical ailments.

Have you ever tried growing horsetail or used a product with horsetail as an ingredient? How did it go?

Sources:

• https://thegrownetwork.com/equisetum-hyemale-horsetail-benefits/
• https://www.thespruce.com/horsetail-plant-aggressively-spreading-weed-4125786
• https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/horsetail
• https://www.indigo-herbs.co.uk/natural-health-guide/benefits/horsetail
• https://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/herbs-and-spices/horsetail.html
• https://www.organicfacts.net/horsetail-tea.html
• https://www.verywellhealth.com/horsetail-4692253